Any dust nibs created by dust that settled in the wet surface will get knocked down during this sanding. Despite these precautions, you still may wind up with the occasional stray nib in a fresh finish. If so, yes you can touch that up. This page may have affiliate links. Dust nibs are really noticeable in a finish. Another benefit is that thining poly will reduce dust nibs and bubbles that form. My clear satin finishes have been turning out pretty well. The next day, when the varnish is fully cured, examine it under good light (preferably raking). The sharp glass edge slices through bumps and large dust nibs, as shown on first slide. Of course there is drying times between each coat, as I did not mention, but we all know that….hopefully. Then I wipe the piece/section clean/dry. I use a hard plastic block with a damp/wet cotton/wool wrapped around it then wrap my sandpaper over that. A fast-drying finish, such as shellac, lacquer, or water-based products, allows less time for dust to settle on the wet surface [chart, below. i am using minwax oil based wipe on poly on a guitar. How Do You Smooth the Final Coat of Polyurethane? While I’ve never witnessed it myself, it’s been clearly noted many times online that a finish rag that’s wadded up can catch fire from the heat that comes off the finish. Wipe the surface with a tack cloth after the final sanding to remove any fine dust that may become trapped in the finish. For starters, use a dust-collection system to snag sawdust at the tool source before it spreads throughout the shop. Sand out any brushstrokes and dust nibs. After all done with the finish, I end up with a not overly glossy glass slick finish, that display the wood characteristics/beauty. As much as you may of vacuumed and tack mopped there will always be some dust in the coating. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. They are by no means really bad, but still. Finally, the 7th coat I use the gloss wipe on poly at it’s pre mixed value from the can, no thinning. Wipe away the sanding dust with a damp cloth. For some, you get a lot of bubbles, for others, not so much. A light coating of finish after sanding disguises the area. You will need to get rid of the dust nibs, or they will show through each successive coat and ruin your smooth finish. Let us know how the Japan Drier, and that glitter experiment, I’d love to see what that looks like, maybe I’ll try that too. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish — as long as the finish is fully dry. Just sand enough with the wool to remove the dust nibs and slightly dull the surface. It's nothing too sinister, just dust particles that have settled into it. The finer the abrasive used, the smaller (or shorter) of a scratch it leaves in the finish. Don't be satisfied with just a regular finish. The best thing to do is apply a poly layer with sandpaper afterward. How to de-nib How do I de-nib polyurethane after it dries but still maintain its finish? However, standard wood furniture, using wipe on poly, those high grits are entirely not necessary. As long as the dust isn’t excessive and as long as the particles aren’t large, you can make the surface feel smooth with this paper bag trick. varnish. I find thinning can speed up the drying process a bit without any sacrifice, and as always temp. You may find brush marks, yet the biggest issue is that of dust. Any small particles -- even dust motes or nibs, will show up in the finish. Then I do a damp/wet sand using anywhere from a 320g to 1000g. But there’s no reason to use it rather than the polyurethane itself, for the first coat, unless there’s a problem in the wood that you want to block off. All Rights Reserved. I would say i probably have about 20 coats on there so far. In part it depends on the brand or quality of the polyurethane you’re using. It doesn’t necessarily have to take that long, but I like to put on a coat at a certain time of the day, then let it alone for 24 hours. On day one, I take a rag and I apply a coat everywhere on the furniture. Apply a total of 2 to 4 coats of poly depending on the needs of the piece. I use cheese cloth as my applicator and discard it after each application. It also removes the roughness caused by the swelling of the wood fibers. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. You should see a fine, white powder after sanding -- if not, allow it to dry longer between coats. That’s a normal part of the building process. This creates a bit of a slurry, which I then remove with the rag by rubbing in 1 direction, one last time along the grain with the same rag I’d been using. When I sand I am not trying to take any wood off so it is very lightly. I must assume you mean a finish coating on some sort of furniture or other wood surface. This is due to the same reason as #1 – the poly dries faster. 0000 steel wool with the grain between coats. Basically, I make sure there are no tools lying around in the way, and that there is plenty of room to rotate and work around all pieces, without things getting in the way. So you say you have 20 coats? Plus I’m worried about overspray drifting onto nearby cars, and in my tight-knit neighborhood, that’s a real concern. The “LAY IT ON THIN” rule applies to wipe on polyurethane as well as brushing on polyurethane. Follow that by removing any dust nibs from the surface using 1,500-grit sandpaper or a brown paper bag. – The Why And The How To Apply A Wax Finish, Nitrile Gloves (latex gloves will disintegrate during use), Flat sanding block (scrap piece of hardwood). The dust nibs you mention might not be dust nibs but raised grain from the sanding. Sometimes it’s just not practical to brush on poly for various reasons. Subscribe here. This is why leveling is the pre-buffing step required next. I wait 1 day between coats. Lightly sand the surface with fine sand paper before applying a second coat. Most of us don’t have the luxury of a separate finishing room. I usually thin my poly 60poly wipe-satin:40 mineral spirits, first 3 coats are applied this way. Brush marks and patterns from spray application will leave an irregular surface which is noticeable, particularly on gloss finishes. When the finish hardens, you have to sand them out and apply a new finish. That’s literally the exact process I use, and it’s been working great for me. So the process is basically this. Also note suggestion to wipe on a dilute coat to finish off if you want to go that route, this minimises the chance of further dust (and completely eliminates risk of bubbles). Application is easy, and you don’t have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs if you use this oil for finishing. But getting each stroke to lay down flat and blend good with the previous one is a bit stressful, and I just prefer wiping it on. This is due to the same reason as #1 – the poly dries faster. RAGS. That required 1500 and 2000 grit wet sanding. Yes, it takes more coats and it’s a longer process, but brushing on poly is an art that I just have not mastered. Sanding it down is fine, you’ll want to add a couple more layers to build it back up. Polyurethane Finish Tip#2: Level the Surface of the Polyurethane. Here’s what I use when I apply wipe on poly to a finished piece of furniture: First thing you need to do is prep the work area. Make a few uni-directional passes. You don’t want to stir up any dust while applying your finish. Bubbles, bits of dust and other debris may lodge in the surface of the finish. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. I imagine while you’re applying the paint, you’ll be partly painting over some poly as well. I’ve finished most of the furniture I’ve built with wipe on poly. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and coat it again. Then after that, I just apply each additional coat once per day until it’s built up enough to my liking. Then, lightly sand between coats with 400-grit sandpaper. Instead, we apply finish in the same space where we rip, rout, and sand. You still need to keep your work area and the finish you’re using clean. The dust nibs haven't been much of a bother on this project. How can you eliminate brush marks when finishing? This is mostly impossible and you will likely deal with at least 1 or 2 noticeable dust nibs. The “LAY IT ON THIN” rule applies to wipe on polyurethane as well as brushing on polyurethane. It’s easy and it looks great. Step 1: Apply Finish It's possible the streaking (which honestly is extremely minor and only in a few areas and visible under certain lighting conditions only) was due to either waiting a bit long to wipe off the varnish on one coat, or perhaps from the sanding. It’s easier to clean up dust as you go than to remove it after it builds up on everything. Use medium to heavy pressure, and try to keep the pressure and the direction of your strokes as consistent as possible. 8 – Again, pour the wiping varnish/poly onto the surface and spread it around with a folded cloth’s flat edge. By laying it out flat so it can air dry easily, that heat dissipates just fine and doesn’t cause any heat buildup in the rag. I use this with Deft all the time and get great results-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected] After the topcoat dries thoroughly, buff it as shown below. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2D9Edzm (UK) . It also removes the roughness caused by the swelling of the wood fibers. Faster-drying polyurethane … Then near the end, when I have 1 layer left, I’ll do the wet-sanding layer once again. N'T been much of a bother on this project after sanding disguises the area dust the... 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Follow that by removing any dust nibs, as polyurethane will stick to the same space where we,., 18o,220,320 and 4oo on polyurethane down and you will need to keep your area!
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